During an hour-long walk through the Tagansky district, the participants of the tour had an opportunity to learn about the role Old Believers, trees, the Surikovsky Institute, the revolution, and biological mutations played in the history of the district. The tour was available in Russian and English and was accompanied by informational brochures.
TOP 10 OTHER MOST PLACES IN MOSCOW, 2026, performance
Video by Alexandra Popova
(documentation is incomplete)
(documentation is incomplete)
This performance is a conceptual continuation of the TOP 10 MOST PLACES IN MOSCOW tour. Narratively, both tours are independent.
Full transcript
I am glad to welcome you all on the "TOP 10 OTHER MOST PLACES IN MOSCOW" tour. You’ll get to visit places unnoticed by the general public, which nevertheless can tell an inquisitive mind a lot about the history, culture and everyday concerns of Moscow’s residents, and specifically of those in Tagansky district.
Today we will try to answer a question posed long before me: Why are there so many trees around the Surikov Institute? The further we are into the tour, the clearer it’ll become just how fundamental this inquiry is to understanding Tovarischesky lane and its surroundings. And so we begin.
Today we will try to answer a question posed long before me: Why are there so many trees around the Surikov Institute? The further we are into the tour, the clearer it’ll become just how fundamental this inquiry is to understanding Tovarischesky lane and its surroundings. And so we begin.
Executive Board
One’s eye is immediately drawn to a memorial stone with the order of Patriarch Alexy II of Moscow and All Russia concerning the erection of a chapel and a temple (as well as a diocesan school for the orphaned daughters of priests), where the Surikov Institute would later be built. It’s easy to get lost in a procession of exuberant titles and hyper-specific purposes and overlook the core question — why is this monument even standing? Both explicitly and implicitly, it’s supported by trees. The plank in the front guides the eye and thus, the perception of cultural heritage, while the tree stump in the back serves as a foundation strong enough to withstand the turbulence of modernity.
This is only a small part of the tasks that trees perform every day. By the end of the tour you’ll familiarize yourself with many of the branching pillars of society, the total number of which is ever-growing. We will see another example of their variety just around the corner. While we are walking, I suggest you enjoy the picturesque view right from the windows of the studios of the Surikov Institute. Artists need natural lighting, and passers-by can no longer imagine their journey to work without a feast for the eyes — a truly beautiful symbiotic relationship!
This is only a small part of the tasks that trees perform every day. By the end of the tour you’ll familiarize yourself with many of the branching pillars of society, the total number of which is ever-growing. We will see another example of their variety just around the corner. While we are walking, I suggest you enjoy the picturesque view right from the windows of the studios of the Surikov Institute. Artists need natural lighting, and passers-by can no longer imagine their journey to work without a feast for the eyes — a truly beautiful symbiotic relationship!
According to recent studies, along with water and various minerals, tree roots can also absorb ideas floating in the air. But the evidence of such socio-energetic exchanges sometimes manifests only decades later, and regional ethnographers, knowing this, always look for signs on their way to school.
One of them pointed this place out to me. The building in front of us is where in 1918 the Moscow regional conference of workers was held. It was here where Vladimir Ilyich Lenin gave a speech. The traces of his voice, echoing through the halls, can still be seen not only in a plaque on the other side of the building, but also in the DNA of nearby trees — instead of leaves, scarlet banners still sprout from the branches from time to time.
One of them pointed this place out to me. The building in front of us is where in 1918 the Moscow regional conference of workers was held. It was here where Vladimir Ilyich Lenin gave a speech. The traces of his voice, echoing through the halls, can still be seen not only in a plaque on the other side of the building, but also in the DNA of nearby trees — instead of leaves, scarlet banners still sprout from the branches from time to time.
I was a witness to this rare event at the very end of April. I managed to take a photo right before the locals harvested the banners to decorate the streets for the International Worker’s Day.
However, the "Redwood Growths", as the locals affectionately call them, are not the only carriers of ideological mutations of Tovarishchesky Lane. We'll see their historical opponent later, so I'd like to ask you to keep what you just saw in mind. А пока мы переключимся на что-то более практичное, можно даже сказать технологичное.
However, the "Redwood Growths", as the locals affectionately call them, are not the only carriers of ideological mutations of Tovarishchesky Lane. We'll see their historical opponent later, so I'd like to ask you to keep what you just saw in mind. А пока мы переключимся на что-то более практичное, можно даже сказать технологичное.
Redwood Growths
In times of crisis and uncertainty residents of Tagansky district always gather around the house 9b1. This is because it is here that the only known model of the latest techno-synoptic invention that predicts fate grows. Powered by wind, this tool can estimate the future happiness index of an individual, with perfect precision and zero carbon footprint.
You can see how it works for yourselves — just think about your plans for the nearest future, wait a few seconds and check what side of the sign (happy or empty) is facing you.
You can see how it works for yourselves — just think about your plans for the nearest future, wait a few seconds and check what side of the sign (happy or empty) is facing you.
Divination Vane
For many years now, a resident of house 24b7 has been waking up to see a resplendent bluish-gray spruce tree from their window. Its unearthly beauty is so mesmerizing that the flowers on the windowsill fade and wither. Nobody cares to water them anymore, and why bother, if the turquoise magnificence is forever in front of one’s eye. The yard also starts to resemble a lifeless excavation site, because the spruce isn't actually there. After all, it is but a mere projection on a window pane.
It would seem that the tragedy of ephemeral beauty is easily avoidable. There are many beautiful things that are quite physical; but the true reason for the spruce’s attractiveness lies not in the aesthetic needs of the resident, but in the deeply psychological ones, fueled by the burning envy of their neighbors.
It would seem that the tragedy of ephemeral beauty is easily avoidable. There are many beautiful things that are quite physical; but the true reason for the spruce’s attractiveness lies not in the aesthetic needs of the resident, but in the deeply psychological ones, fueled by the burning envy of their neighbors.
A Pinedream
As the result of wandering and interviewing the local residents, I found out that this graffiti has a prototype. It turns out that the spruce painting is based on a real tree, which has an even more interesting story behind it. It grows a couple of yards from here, but I think that a short walk is worth seeing the original with your own eyes. Please follow me.
For many years now, a resident of house 24b7 has been waking up to see a resplendent bluish-gray spruce tree from their window. Its unearthly beauty is so mesmerizing that the flowers on the windowsill fade and wither. Nobody cares to water them anymore, and why bother, if the turquoise magnificence is forever in front of one’s eye. The yard also starts to resemble a lifeless excavation site, because the spruce isn't actually there. After all, it is but a mere projection on a window pane.
It would seem that the tragedy of ephemeral beauty is easily avoidable. There are many beautiful things that are quite physical; but the true reason for the spruce’s attractiveness lies not in the aesthetic needs of the resident, but in the deeply psychological ones, fuelled by the burning envy of their neighbours.
It would seem that the tragedy of ephemeral beauty is easily avoidable. There are many beautiful things that are quite physical; but the true reason for the spruce’s attractiveness lies not in the aesthetic needs of the resident, but in the deeply psychological ones, fuelled by the burning envy of their neighbours.
I think that I shall never see
A gift as lovely as a tree.
A gift as lovely as a tree.
It won’t be necessary to enter the kindergarten. The incubator, or rather its model, can be seen from behind the fence. The miniature was designed to visually convey to parents the purpose of a kindergarten as an institution: to support, nurture and help the child to break out from their eggshell. However, you may have noticed that the model differs from a conventional incubator in one very important aspect — there is a nest hanging over the thermal panel, where the eggs are usually stored.
The Warmth of an Incubator
That’s because, in addition to the warmth of the heater, a child also needs to feel the unconditional warmth of care. It’s easy to understand why children would feel more comfortable in nests — the very structure of a nest consists of intersecting tree branches, the foundation of Tagansky district’s social life.
In the culture of the Tagansky district, trees, and everything adjacent to them, symbolise support and security, which, unfortunately, is sometimes used for quite ignoble purposes. The next place we visit will try to deceive us as it would any other passerby, but with the help of critical analysis we will shed light on all the secrets it hides.
In the culture of the Tagansky district, trees, and everything adjacent to them, symbolise support and security, which, unfortunately, is sometimes used for quite ignoble purposes. The next place we visit will try to deceive us as it would any other passerby, but with the help of critical analysis we will shed light on all the secrets it hides.
Speaking of social life, we mustn’t forget that it is never homogeneous. Some aspects of it lie on the surface, some need to be seeked out, and some are deliberately hidden from prying eyes. This "playground" deliberately mimics elements of a nest incubator to pass for a safe, unremarkable place to work out or have fun. But in reality, thick bushes shield the area from onlookers, and the deafening chirping of sparrows (specially trained) forms a noise curtain.
What exactly is being discussed here, we'll probably never know, but considering all the precautions taken, we can assume that, probably, nothing good.
What exactly is being discussed here, we'll probably never know, but considering all the precautions taken, we can assume that, probably, nothing good.
A Spy Nest
When I first started collecting materials for the tour, I certainly expected to find some entertaining stories, but I had no idea how interconnected they would all be. Unraveling one mystery, I found myself in the centre of another, and then the third and fourth, until a whole network of plots unraveled in front of me. Behind Tagansky district’s seemingly calm facade, it is actually full of life.
So, we are back on the main meridian of our route, and so, talking about ideological mutations and their carriers can continue. Every idea has both supporters and opponents. It’s time we get acquainted with the rival of the Redwood Leninist we’ve met a little while back.
Standing on White Guard
Fearlessly shielding the former workshop of the famous Old Believer icon painter Yakov Bogatenko, stands a counter-revolutionary birch tree. It is proudly displaying its allegiance to the volunteer army, waving the banner of the White Guard in the sky.
Nature's quest for balance often forces historically irreconcilable enemies into an awkward draw. Frustrated, the buildings of both dusty red and cream-white reverberate with echoes. Echoes of the proletarian and the Old Faith, stuck in a confusing limbo, incapable to emerge victorious or to retreat into the past, linger still.
Nature's quest for balance often forces historically irreconcilable enemies into an awkward draw. Frustrated, the buildings of both dusty red and cream-white reverberate with echoes. Echoes of the proletarian and the Old Faith, stuck in a confusing limbo, incapable to emerge victorious or to retreat into the past, linger still.
Before the revolution, the Tagansky district was predominantly populated by Old Believer tradesmen who did not skimp on the construction of temples, monasteries and columns for stylites, which is exactly what the tower-like construct in front of us is.
A Whisper from the Grapevine
However, in recent years historians and religious scholars have mostly shifted their attention from the Ichthys mural, preserved since then, to the vine growing around it. When state atheism began to be enforced on a global scale, the traditional path to faith was rendered inaccessible. The spiritual vagrancy continued until 1948, until the Surikov Institute moved into the building 30 on Tovarishchesky lane and brought trees into the spotlight.
Realist artists were already used to putting "nature" on a pedestal, and by that time an unoccupied niche had been conveniently forming in the public consciousness for several decades. Trees were basically invincible to the government’s usual strategy for attacking religion. You can't accuse a tree of opposing reality and scientific progress — it grows on the street, cars driving by unchallenged; but the very sight of its branches and budding leaves has an innate ability to push a person in doubt in the right direction. The column that towers before us now reconciles the original religion with its substitute.
They undoubtedly have substantial differences, but, nonetheless, are both integral to the functioning of Tagansky district as we came to know it.
Realist artists were already used to putting "nature" on a pedestal, and by that time an unoccupied niche had been conveniently forming in the public consciousness for several decades. Trees were basically invincible to the government’s usual strategy for attacking religion. You can't accuse a tree of opposing reality and scientific progress — it grows on the street, cars driving by unchallenged; but the very sight of its branches and budding leaves has an innate ability to push a person in doubt in the right direction. The column that towers before us now reconciles the original religion with its substitute.
They undoubtedly have substantial differences, but, nonetheless, are both integral to the functioning of Tagansky district as we came to know it.
There is only one place left for us to visit. It will give us a satisfying conclusion of the tour and answer the question posed at the very beginning. To find out for sure, we just need to turn the corner.
Today we talked at length about history and psychology, politics and technology, but have completely and unfairly overlooked time. But it is in the restless river of time that all this cultural heritage of mankind accumulates. Along with the rain, time washes over cities, people and the earth — an aspect of the water cycle too complicated for the school syllabus. Hydrated, the annual rings thicken inside the trunk, permanently integrating time into a tree’s structure.
Escape of the Zeitgeist
Not a single tree that we’ve seen today compares with this one, more than a meter across. But it's not the size that makes one pause, but the fact that this giant is hollow inside, completely devoid of annual rings. Only recently have physicists found an explanation for the mysterious phenomenon. It all comes down to the crack in the crust going all the way down to the ground. Damage of this kind suggests that there could’ve been a local explosion inside the tree.
The bark simply could not withstand the centuries of built up pressure in the annual rings, and so it cracked, splitting the base of the poplar in half and flooding the surrounding streets with concentrated time. The consequences of the explosion are felt to this day. Without it, there wouldn’t have been a tour.
So, now in case somebody asks you: “So why are there so many trees around the Surikov Institute?”, you have the answer. There is actually only one tree, dispersed over several kilometers, feeding the metaphysical ecosystem of the Tagansky district. And if that explanation doesn’t satisfy your conversation partner, take them to places you’ve been to today.
So, now in case somebody asks you: “So why are there so many trees around the Surikov Institute?”, you have the answer. There is actually only one tree, dispersed over several kilometers, feeding the metaphysical ecosystem of the Tagansky district. And if that explanation doesn’t satisfy your conversation partner, take them to places you’ve been to today.
This concludes our tour. But, before we part ways, I have just one more piece of advice before we part ways. If you look around, and notice things that don’t make sense, I hope you look just a little bit closer. Do that and you’ll emerge on the other side. There are many more most places in Moscow.
